Up to this day, materials such as elastane, spandex, and mainly polyester are the primary fabrics used for sportswear. They are cheap to produce and offer breathability and stretch, making them comfortable to move in.
Why and where does polyester come from?
Polyester, invented in 1941 by British chemists, only became popular in the 1970s due to its low maintenance and wrinkle resistance. The low cost of polyester played a crucial role in the rise of fast fashion, enabling mass production of inexpensive, fashionable sportswear. The growth of the fashion industry improved polyester production, further reducing costs and making polyester an indispensable material.
Sustainability impact of Polyester
Unfortunately, the use of polyester in sportswear has a downside. Polyester is made from oil, a non-renewable resource that requires a lot of energy and causes significant pollution. Below is an overview of the negative effects of polyester:
Energy-intensive process: Polyester production begins with the extraction of crude oil, from which ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid are obtained. These are converted into polyethylene terephthalate (PET) at high temperatures (280-300°C). The required energy often comes from burning fossil fuels, leading to CO2 emissions.
Water usage: Polyester production requires a lot of water, especially for cooling during the various production stages. This water can become polluted with production chemicals.
Use of toxic chemicals in dyeing: Dyeing polyester requires chemicals that can be carcinogenic or harmful to humans and the environment. Commonly used chemicals include heavy metals, formaldehyde, and aromatic amines.
Non-biodegradable: Polyester is not biodegradable and can remain in the environment for hundreds of years. This negatively affects soil health and creates mountains of waste.
Microplastics: Polyester sportswear sheds microplastics, especially during washing. These microplastics enter ecosystems and can be ingested by fish and other marine animals, ultimately affecting humans as well. The average person can ingest up to 1,769 particles of plastic per week through water and food.
The full impact of microplastics on human health and the environment remains unclear but is gaining increasing attention. For instance, the theme of Earth Day 2024 was 'Planet vs. Plastic'. Recent studies are, to say the least, 'not positive'. A blog on this will follow later.
Challenges in recycling Polyester
While recycling polyester is promising to reduce environmental impact, there is still a significant gap to bridge. Almost all recycled polyester in clothing comes from recycled water bottles rather than recycled garments. This is because recycling PET bottles is simpler than recycling mixed materials or colored garments, which again requires chemicals.
Conclusion
Polyester has become a cornerstone of the global sportswear industry due to its affordability and versatility. However, its rise has brought significant environmental and social challenges. This situation highlights the necessity for solutions that benefit both people and the planet.